RMNP 16 Notch Top Mt. Bear Lake to Fern Lake

RMNP 16 Notch Top Mt. Bear Lake to Fern Lake

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Thomas Lakes, and Lost Mans Loop Trail

July 9, 2011 Thomas Lakes 8 miles




Today we get up and put on our hiking boots for the first day of hiking. We have scoured the maps trying to find a hike that is on the way from Eagle to Snowmass. One that does not go straight up in elevation as we are still flat Landers having only spent one night at 6000 feet in elevation. We figure we will stop at the Ranger station in Carbondale and pick up some info there. The best trail idea we can come up with is Thomas Lakes, which is the start of the trail up to Mt Sopris 13,000 footer. Mt Sopris is a real beauty as she stands way above anything else around her giving her the look of 14,000 footer. Or in Coloradoan language there is a 14’er and 13’er.

Testing my balance work and ability of boots to stay dry.


We load up the truck and as we are experts now, we know just how everything has to fit in. The truck starts and change oil light binging out its warning. We head to the gas station drop in some gas and check the oil. Well not only does the truck need an oil change it is in need of oil. I go in and ask the gas station attendant if he has any oil. We buy a quart and drop it in.



Off we go to the ranger station. Oops going the wrong way on the Interstate. Did not even have the Garmin plugged in as we were still talking about the oil… We locate a turn around exit and get back to where we should have gone east instead of west. Now we need to locate the Ranger Station in Carbondale. We can’t come up with and address, but can see on the map that there is one. We find it, pull in and park only to find it is closed during the weekend. The station is closed on the weekend; now that seems a bit too strange for us. Don’t you think there would be a lot of visitors on the weekend? This must be due to budget cuts.



Driving back to the Highway we pass a fishing store, we decide to take a chance and drop in to see if they have any info on the trails in the area. The guy at the cash register said that Thomas Lakes was open, but posthole snow up to Mt. Sopris. For those of you who are wondering what posthole snow is, it is when you are walking on the snow and drop in up to your crotch to create what a post hole would need. Of course in the sudden dropping of your body the thought crosses your mind about what sort of rock or wet creek awaits your bottoming out…



From the map we have we have some of the names of the roads we should be turning on to get to the trailhead of the Thomas Lakes/Mt. Sopris , but they don’t jive with what we see. Road signs are missing. Had to stop three times and ask for clarification, even with directions and map. We finally find what a person points to and says they ‘think’ it is the correct road to the trail. We spent the next 20 minutes driving back to the trailhead while only guessing we were on the correct unmarked single lane pot hole filled dirt/gravel road back to the official trail head. (Thank goodness we have a 4 wheel drive truck as this road would eat up and spit out a Ford Focus.)


Mt. Sporis hiding in the low clouds


We are following another truck up this four wheel drive road. At the end of the road we chat with the couple from the truck, who confirmed we had arrived at the correct trailhead. We started hiking at around 10 am.



Once on the trail, we fall into a familiar pace of trying to stay between 75 – 87% of our max heart rate. The familiar sounds of birds and smells of fir and spruce fill my senses and welcome me back to this inner peace. Oh yes, the sound of sucking wind also can be heard as exercising at elevation can really do a number on your heart rate an respiratory system!) We find our pace knowing that the turtle must rule the first days of hiking. Getting acclimated is the most important aspect!



This hike has something of everything, groves of aspen trees, great views of the valley, wild flowers, lakes, and view of Mount Sopris. Mount Sopris falls just short of a 14’er, but since it stands by itself rather than in a range it looks big!



We met 3 guys coming down the trail who started at 5:30 am and summated Mt. Sopris at 10 am. They reported that the summit is possible…windy, chilly, and makeable. Our minds and conversation center on a possible Sopris summit. Hmm this might have to be our Longs Peak. As of when we left for Colorado, Longs Peak was still rated winter technical climbing which you will need crampons and ice axes for. That does not sound like the hiking we do!



We sit at the second lake and drop out packs for a lunch break while looking out over the second of the Thomas Lakes. The first sounds of thunder rumble across the valley. Shortly after that rumble people start coming on down the trail past us. They are all scrambling below tree line to get out of the way of the lightening. We pack up and join in the exit from the area. The whole way down the trail the sky is a rumbling and looking very dark. We can see it is raining off to the west, but we manage to get back to the car with out getting wet.



We continue on to Snowmass and find our condo is the highest condo on the ski mountain. Well that should really help get us acclimated to the elevationSnowmass is ski town and all of the buildings are a part of the ski hill. You can ski right up to any of the condos or into the mall for a bite to eat or a quick shopping adventure before continuing with your skiing. I can not imagine driving these roads with snow on them. The roads are very steep and windy. With over 600 inches of snow every winter season where do they put it all?


July 10, 2011 Lost man lake loop + Grotto 10 miles                    total mileage  18



Hey anyone looking for a great job? Today we were headed out of town to drive to the trailhead and we were stopped by a police officer who was holding back traffic. He was drinking coffee and wearing a black polo. When we had our turn to proceed we passed the police officer working the other side of the trouble he two was wearing a nice black golf polo shirt drinking coffee. Hey comfy clothes and drinking coffee on the job. Ahh yes living out here is great!

Nice Truck!


Today is all about adventure. Are you ready? We headed through Aspen and on up 82 east toward Independence pass. This pass is closed during the winter but has been opened as the pass is now clear of snow. The trailhead that we are stopping at is close to the pass. We thought we might drive up and take a look around if we had time after we were done hiking. On Monday I had called the Ranger station and they said the snow melt line was up to 10500 feet. Even with the knowledge of the snow line and starting elevation we were planning on trying this hike and going as far as we could before the snow turned us back. We parked our car at the upper trailhead and the elevation was 11500. We can see snow, but just decide to give it a go and hike as far as we can. Since this is a loop trial some people go with a group and park two cars. One car parked at each trail head. Or they hike it one way and hitch hike their way back the four miles back up the road to the trailhead in which they left their car. I have only hitch hiked once in my life and it was just last year in Crested Butte.

Wet trails & boots.


The trail is running with water. Water, water, water. No worries right. Yes, if you remember back to last year when Kathi and I took the Oh Be Joyful trail. That whole hike was taken while walking in the pouring rain. The whole hike, all I could think about was whether or not water proofing the hiking boots only once was a good decision. Well, no worries about that this year, I water proofed those babies twice! Even after the lady at REI told us that if your boots are GORTEX, you do not need to water proof them, I still put two coats on. She certainly has not been walking in the pouring rain and wondering…emmmm are my feet getting wet?



As we were hiking up through the melting water run off the valley was quiet open and you could get great views if the valley and mountain range that were in. The views were fantastic. We had a very nice turtle pace going as this is the second day of hiking and we are approaching 12000 feet. We had a group of six in front of us that we were about a mile behind as we wiggled our way up through the valley and up toward Independence Lake. We could see the summit of the saddle rising up before as and we could also see spots of the trail, but mostly we could see snow.



Kathi is beginning to tell me that she thinks her left foot is getting wet. Kathi is not sure if it is wet or feels wet… Since we are traipsing through lots of snow patches across the trail, running water down the trail that is most times 2 to 3 inches deep, the mud and muck is usually up over the top of the laces of the boot. I remind Kathi that I had watered proofed all boots TWICE even if they were made from GORTEX. It must be the cold of the snow that she feels.



Indepence lake were we find two guys fishing for frozen fish sticks:)
We get up to Independence Lake to find it is still frozen with a small melted out spot. There is a man and young boy with fly fishing poles. I asked how the fishing was… I think they must be fishing for frozen fish sticks. He laughs and said they would try and fish the streams as they hiked back down. While we were talking he pointed out two cougar tracks across the snow. Cougar! I did not know there were cougar here. Well, put that on the list of things to watch out for.



We continue to head up towards the saddle and are very thankful the group of six are blazing such a nice trail to follow through the snow. At this point the snow covering is 85% of the trail and you are looking for where the trial might just peek out so you can get a bearing. The snow walking does not seem too terrible. We have our new REI snow stabilizers in the pack, but decide it is to early to dig those out. The only steps that seem difficult are when you can hear running water under where you are standing on the snow……….. Those steps I try to think light feathery thoughts.



We arrive at the saddle after 1 hour and 48 minutes of hiking to find the group of 6 sitting and have carrot cake. We chat for a bit and find they have two cars parked. We tell them we were hoping to hike as far as we could and then head back the way we had come as we only had one car. They offered us a ride back up to our car. Perfect. We sealed the deal and kept hiking with them. I was hoping to get in on the carrot cake, but they gobbled up the crumbs pretty fast…



John and Sue, Sean and Young Lea, Glen and Barbara. They were all members of Colorado Hiking Club, but had broken off and started their own club. Amongst the group they had 3 gps’s and good trail finding skills. It is also a good time to point out that two of their gps’s had the trail pre-recorded into it’s memory! And it is good thing as the snow  and fast in coming storm was making it very difficult to find the trail. We were moving pretty quickly as the sky was looking pretty nasty. And true to form it thundered once and was pouring freezing cold rain just like that! We all scrambled into our rain gear and covered out packs. I know that Kathi and I would have rather put on the rain gear before it started pouring, but I think the group was in denial and wondering if the storm was going to just pass over. Silly choice, use your time to get on rain gear while still dry or use it to get closer to tree line before the storm. What do they call these things …Catch 22’s .
Lost Man's Lake is still Frozen



Just to be sure, Kathi and I would have been out there a long time reading the topo map and gps to find our way through those snow fields. Or we would have turned around and headed back the way we came.

As the storm approaches there are flowers to be seen as we look for the trail.


After about a half hour of cold pouring rain it stopped and cleared up. We stopped for lunch and time to undress out of the rain gear. I was hoping for someone in the group of six to pull out another dessert choice and we could all commune on it… No such luck.



This is when Kathi told me she was 100% sure her boots were not water proof. In fact cold and very wet were closer to the truth. With all of the water, snow, and rain the water was seeping into her boots from down on the part where the insole rubber bottom attaches to the leather part of the shoe. I simply can not be held responsible for waterproofing that…. Time to retire those babies!



We chattered our way down the mountain with the group of six and make it back into the lower trail head after 6 and half hours of hiking. All of it in water conditions that put the Oh Be Joyful hike to shame! Views were spectacular!
Sky clears after the storm



Kathi hopped a ride in the car with the group and headed up to retrieve out car. She got back down to me just as it was going to start raining again! Standing by the truck, Kathi takes off her boots to switch into her sandals. She is able to wring water out of her socks… I simply can not be held responsible for water that comes through the soles…. We will have to plan a retirement party for those boots.



PS: My new Lowa trekkers with GORTEX lining, which I water proofed twice, were dry :)

Monday, July 25, 2011

2011 Colorado Vacation "Getting There"

July 9th. Travel day




We arrived in Denver after circling around and around the city for an hour. On the ground they were receiving a hail storm. Thank goodness the pilot said we had enough fuel in the tank or we would have been diverted to another city to refuel. I am not sure if this was the storm that damaged many of the Frontier Airlines jets or not. I just heard that Frontier airlines took a big hit with the hail on their jets and had to cancel many flights…



The ride down through the skies once we got the ok to land was like riding through a popcorn popper. I’m glad the wings of the jets stayed bolted on… But once down through the clouds the actual touchdown was smooth.



Took the bus to National car rental and went and stood at the desk waiting for our turn. Lady at the desk said we had Emerald Status. I guess that means we could have just gone out and picked any car from the emerald aisle and driven to the check out gate. Who knew? Heck who remembers these things when you only rent a car once a year?



Just before we leave the counter we ask the helpful lady if she knew where the closest REI was located. We need to stop at REI in Denver as we think with all of the snow still on the trails we are going to need something a bit more aggressive than the yaks tracks the we brought along from WI. Yaks tracks are good if you are out snow blowing the driveway and don’t want to slip. We are not so sure the yaks will be the answer for the snow conditions on the trails here. We don’t really think that crampons would be necessary as they are over $150’s and seem an extreme measure to take. (When circling Denver for an hour after a three hour flight you have time to discuss these things. And from this height in the air you get a feeling for how much snow there still is in the mountains.) The counter lady was kind enough to look up on her snappy phone which was connected to the internet the ‘on time traffic condition’ to get to the REI downtown Denver or REI in the suburbs. Either REI was going to have a one hour travel time due to rush hour traffic. We chose to go to the suburb REI as it was sort of on the way. She then gave us directions to the REI. We head for Emerald Aisle to pick up our car.



When we get out to the aisle we are looking for either a Ford focus or KIA something or other… The lady at the counter said we needed to find one of those two. We can’t find any. So we go to the Emerald Aisle kiosk and talk with that guy. He is nice and asks if we were delayed by the “weather”.

Yes, we were.

“Ok, sorry about that, then you can have the pick any car on the lot.”

Really, any car, on the whole lot?

“Yes”.



When you can have ‘any car’ on the lot, the choice is much harder. Kathi and I head right for the four wheel drives! We had wanted to rent a four wheel drive, but the cost is very steep. But if they give you the choice of the lot, you don’t go the tiny car… You go big! There was a beautiful Ford 150 all leather. We decide that a truck this size will be too wide for those mountain roads and at 12 mpg’s it does not sound cheap. How about a four wheel drive truck that is the mid size four wheel drive truck?



We spot a red Dodge Dakota with extended cab.



There is a worker guy out there doing something with the cars in the lot, and we ask him about gas mileage of the Dakota. He said 18 to 20 mpg’s. Perfect, after loading the two large suitcases that each weighing 48 pounds and the ‘carry on’ that weighed 40 pounds, plus our two back packs we get in. The luggage space in the back jumper seat is just enough so we can stack two of the suitcases but have to buckle the third suitcase in like a person so we can fit everything in. Just as I step around from the back door to get in the front passenger seat I notice a large hunk of metal that is sliced into the front passenger tire. I am not sure what it is, but it looks like a flat tire in about 10 miles of driving. We climb out and locate another Dodge Dakota. This one is silver. Again we load up the suitcases, get all situated, and buckled in. Great now we are ready.



Kathi turns the ignition and nothing happens…



Ok, unload.



Reload into a gold Dakota. At this rate we are not having good vibes and I am beginning to wonder if there is a reason there are so many Dakota four wheel drives available… Before loading for the third time we check all tires and ignition just to ‘see’. I even check to see if there is a car manual in the glove box, we might need it. Ok, let’s load up. By the time we leave the Emerald Aisle at National car rental 48 minutes have passed since we received the invitation to take any car on the lot.



We followed our directions to REI and sure enough the rush hour traffic was thick and slow. We had lots of time to evaluate our map and check the directions as moving at 15 mph hour you have time…We even called ahead to REI to make sure they had what we were looking for and the correct sizes which we would need. They put them on hold for us.



It took us one hour to get to REI. Traffic was bad. Walk in to REI and make out purchases get directions from the clerk about the best way to get back on the Interstate. Back on the go and out to the truck. When Kathi turns the key of the truck… It starts, but the warning lights are binging about it being time for an oil change! What! We have only one had the truck for one hour and have only driven it about a total of twenty miles. Emerald Aisle is not looking so glittery…We press on and ignore the change oil light. I will check the oil tomorrow.



We arrive in Eagle, CO at 9:30pm. Another vacation is under way.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Summer 2009 Day 6 & 7 Drive Day and Hike into Shadow Lake

Day 6 and 7 Drive Day and Hike into Shadow Lake


Day 6 is drive day… We get up to a beautiful sunny sky… We have a wonderful breakfast and drive to ‘Head Smashed in Buffalo Jump’. Yes, that really is the name. Yes it is a museum showing how the Indians of the prairie out smarted the buffalo to get them to runoff of a cliff and die in a pile so they could put the meat up for the winter months.

Here are a few facts:

• When stampeding, a buffalo can reach and sustain speeds of 50 km/hr.

• It is estimated that 60 million buffalo roamed the Great Plains at the time of the arrival of Europeans in North America.

• During the summer months the buffalo hair is at its shortest. Skins were taken for lodge covers and numerous other articles were made from the soft, dressed skins.

• Natural topographic barriers such as coulees, depressions, or hills were sometimes used to funnel buffalo to the jump. Such is the case at Head-Smashed-In.

• Buffalo herds were led by one or two individual animals, usually females.

• Some meat was made into pemmican by first sun-drying it, then pulverizing the dried meat with a stone maul and mixing this with buffalo fat and grease. To add flavor to pemmican, fruit such as chokecherries were then mixed together in a parfleche container and pounded to remove all air form the food. This pounded mixture, when carefully prepared, would keep in a tight parfleche container for many months.

• Buffalo horns were scraped and formed into spoons.

• Buffalo tongues were often given to medicine men or women, who were responsible for ensuring the success of the hunt.

After seeing the jump and then going through the exhibits we had a good understanding how the Indians went about this little hunting adventure.

We left for the drive to Banff. Arrived in Banff after a 4 ½ drive. We walked up and down the street of Banff. Kathi thought I was looking for something special and I thought she was looking for something special. We could have saved a lot of time by just asking each other- what are we looking for…Mostly, I was thinking there are 300 stores in Banff, and all are carrying the same items. It is still a tourist trap. We just bought supper.

Drove to Johnston Canyon Cabins for the night and to pack for Shadow Lake. We have to back pack our things in to the back country lodge. We will be carrying two nights and three days worth of “stuff”. After packing we head sown to the little cafĂ© and shop. Wanted to check out when breakfast was. I checked out the shop…It had the same stuff as Banff. Go figure.

Woke up, showered put the 100 oz. of water in my pack and lifted it up. Ya, I set it back down and reconsidered what I had packed. I took out a shirt, a pair of socks, and a pair of pants. If I could have taken anything else out I would have. How about that hair brush …how much does that weigh???

After breakfast we drove 15 minutes up the road and parked the car at the trailhead. Since we were going to be leaving the car sitting there right off of the road for three days, I resisted the urge to do a Mr. Kentucky and check all if the doors individually. Kathi just doubled beeped the clicker and we snapped the keys into her pack and headed off down the trail. We are headed off to day for Shadow lake Backcountry Lodge. There are three ways into this lodge. One trail is very easy roller coaster hike of 6 miles. One is a very steep 13 mile hike. The one we are choosing is a 9 mile hike past 4 lakes and two mountain passes…

First thing is a 400 foot loss in elevation down to our first lake. Ahh you remember now that this will mean a 400 foot trudge back up at the end. We drop down to Vista Lake and walk the length of it, then begin the long climb up over our first pass. The willows are rather tall here so we are yelling out every so often. At on point some guy said “don’t worry, I’m not a bear!” We pass a guy, of course carrying bear spray, and a fishing rod. Good ok, he is not a bear! Up over the pass and down to a tiny little pond then we start doing a roller coast hike to the first Twin Lake. More roller coast hiking before we come to the second beautiful lake called Upper Twin Lake. We stopped and had a lunch break at Upper Twin Lake. We began our climb up to the second pass. This part of the hike we had to do some stepping over, sitting on and sliding over and jumping over several downed tress which were lying across the trail. This adds a little interest to the forested hike. We entered a large larch forest toward the top. Larch are a pine tree which needles turn a golden yellow in the fall and actually fall off of the tree. The needles are very soft. We reach the top if Gibbons Pass. Sit down to have a little snack. We hear voices. Hmmm now where is that coming from? Up on top of Copper Mountain is a group of 7 boy scouts (must have been eagle scouts as their looked like they were in high school) who dropped their packs and hiked up the additional steps to get to the top of it. It is not a hard hike to the top, but it seems silly to go up there if we still needed to go 2 miles to get to the lodge… We did not go, but enjoyed sitting up at the pass just enjoying the sun and warm weather.

The last 2 miles are a 1800 foot drop in elevation to get down to the Lodge. This is a very steep drop in elevation. I think they just looked at how the water rushed down the mountain and decided to go with that as a trail. Yikes this is going to be a killer climbing out of. All in all this was a very interesting hike. Lots to look at. After hiking for two days in the fog and rain, some rubber necking was a welcomed event!

We arrived at the Lodge in time for afternoon tea. We had coffee and sweets, sweets, sweets. Hmmm chocolate chip thick and chewy cookies, toffee bars, and what is that bars that has about seven ingredients it has chocolate chips and coconut. Geez I will not make those in my kitchen, but can’t refuse it when I see someone else has made! Oh I think I had a brownie caramel bar also. Perhaps I might have over indulged… Well, when else can you eat like this and know that you are going to hike it off? I think Kathi had juice a cookie or two and piece of fruit…healthy choices.

We have a quick tour of the place and receive our cabin assignment. We are in the Pilot Cabin. It is right next to the lodge. This is closest to the water source and privy. Good thing. We go to the cabin and download our packs. It is good to get rid of that extra weight. We decide that we need more hiking for the

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Summer 2009 Carthew Alderson day 5

09 5 Day five Carthew Alderson


For today’s hike you will need a bus ticket for a ride to the trail head, hiking poles, warm clothes, rain clothes, camera, lots of water, a lunch and mole skin.

Today we started at the Tamarack sporting goods store in lovely down town Waterton. From there we take a bus ride to the trail head. This ride takes about 25 minutes. On the ride we get a good overview of different hike in the Waterton area. Good to know for next time we are in town. We are on the bus with Corrie form yesterday’s hike. Four Italians who speak very limited English. Along with Kathi and I there are two people from the Netherlands who are named Chris and Marijke. The Italians hiked by themselves the rest of us joined forces and headed out for our 12.5 miles back town.

We started at Cameron Lake with a few pictures with the lake shrouded with low hanging clouds. I’m thinking that the lake is a real stunner I could only imagine what the lake would look like if it was clear skies…

We hiked steadily up the switch backs until we reached the small Summit Lake. At the lake our group stopped to take pictures. I stopped to put a piece of mole skin on a little hot spot that I had on my left heel. I had all of my supplies with me and tried to hurry. We got back to hiking pretty fast. As we start the long round about climb up to the next set of switch back the clouds are moving in, but the conversation of the group is all very entertaining. We find that Chris and Marijke (sounds like Mary reg all one word) are on a three week vacation. They will be spending one week in Waterton/ Banff, one week in Yoho and one week in Jasper. I guess when you work in those European countries you get four weeks of vacation right from the get go. This is to Kathi’s amazement, as in her job after 13 years of works she still only has 2 weeks of vacation.

Chris and Marijke’s English was perfect. Chris spoke five languages and Marijke only speaks four. So I ask, well when you think do you think in Dutch or in English? They think in Dutch, and then translate into the language they want to speak. Geez that is amazing. I have a hard time thinking and speaking in English and they are throwing in a whole other step in the process. Chris and Marijke must have been in their late 20’s but I don’t think in their 30’s yet. They seemed to be highly educated, well grounded and well traveled. Corrie on the other hand was another story.

Corrie is certainly a hiker and has done some pretty amazing hikes. But she is young, and well I will just say searching to try and find herself. She currently is working as an interpreter in Dinosaur Provincial Park in Alberta. She has plans to go to New Zealand to take an adventure certification class and then she wants to come back to Canada to volunteer at the Winter Olympic in Whistler Canada. She has finished with 1 and half years of college and decided to put that on hold…Basically I think the only thing she actually owns is her camera. Everything else she has borrowed.

Did I mention at this point in the hike we are just talking and hiking with each other as it is totally fogged in… Perhaps I forgot to mention that. Well, I would tell you what we are seeing on this trip, but I’m not sure. I can tell you what my feet look like. Ica also tell you the trail has small flat rocks which are dark grey  I know some of you hiking club members are wondering why are we doing this hike today? The answer is because it is on the schedule for today… What else are we going to do? At some point during these switch backs up to the pass we cannot see other groups members, but we can still hear them talking. This is how we know they haven’t fallen off of the mountain. All of this chatting and walking has made me hungry! We have to stop to eat a little snack and put on some more clothes. With the fog, it has become chilly and damp.

We reached the top of the pass and had a hard time telling. Just sort of figured out it was the top as it was level for about ten feet and then started going down. Ok, time for pictures… I guess this is what it looks like when people tell you are on cloud 9. Well this cloud 9 was thick, chilly and damp. We are disappointed as this is supposed to be fantastic viewing of the chain of lakes. I’m going to guess that since all of the write ups say it is fantastic… then it must be fantastic!

As we are on our way down we have brief moments of the clouds moving and the lakes appearing and disappearing. It is so fast that you would get your camera out and by the time it turned on and ready to take a picture the clouds would have blown back in. So we just stopped walking and waited for the moment to happen again. These pictures prove to be a fun little game of hid and seek.

We moved on down to the third lake thinking we would be out of the clouds and could have a warmer weather lunch. Found a perfect spot with some really fun exploring to be had. I should have stopped exploring and paid attention to my hot spot, which was blooming into a very mature blister. I thought it was too inconvenient to fix, I can just ignore it… Note to self: Next time take whatever time you need to tend to the blister before it becomes a monster blister! Ok, I put that on my hiking notes on a page I have titled: Things I only need to learn once!

After lunch the sun came out!!! We did a little cheer! Then we all just stood in warmth and glow. After two days of not seeing it, it was a blessed event. Ok, now we are looking at some real views! Wow, it was like when Dorothy and Toto went from black and white Kansas to the Technicolor land over the rainbow full of color. I thought I could hear the little munchkins singing “We welcome you to lollipop land…” Oh the blues of the lake, the colors of the flowers….Ahhhhh. Now you can only wonder what you all missed? We poked out way back down through the chain of lakes and had some great views all the way down to Alderson Lake.

View time is over…As we approached tree line the clouds had settled back in. We had about four miles before we would be back to town. This was going to be four miles of walking in the forest with nothing to look at because of the clouds. And as you might have guessed it was raining by the time we entered town. Corrie had to rush off as she needed to drive 4 hours to get back to work. It was about 5 pm so she had a long drive ahead of her. Chris, Marijke and I went to a bar in town to warm up, have a beer and go through some hikes they defiantly should do when they are up in Lake Louse are and Yoho. I’m thinking that s I write this hiking notes they must be finishing up their three week trip.

Today’s hike will go on the re-do list. I’m sure it is an epic hike, but save it for a day that you can see further than your feet…



Hike 12.5 miles, 2135 foot elevation gain, 3330 foot elevation loss, 7 hours and 25 minutes, 1655 calories. I had a big ice cream cone after dinner. HHHHHMMMmmm

There is no vacation complete without a privy shot. This privy is brand new!!! New freshly cut wood smell. Only thing missing was the TP…

Summer 2009 Crypt Lake Waterton, Canada Day 4

Crypt Lake Waterton, Canada

We pack up early and leave our little cabin in the woods in Babb MT. Drive to the border for another border crossing adventure. We are going to bring food back across the border, but this time we have the receipt of the food that we bought originally in Canada. We are ready! Arrive at the border crossing and no one is in sight. Just big orange cones sitting in front of where we need to drive through. We stop, sit and wait. We wait for about a minute, two minutes, three before Mr. Canadian Boarder Man struts out of the building and over to our car. He orders Kathi to shut off the engine open both windows on her side. Yells at the three motorcycles sitting behind us to “cut their engines”! Turns back to us and ask us what the purpose of our border crossing is?

“Ahh, we are choosing to spend our vacation dollar in Canada.”

“Do you have any fruit?”

“No”

“Do you have any fire arms?”

“No”

“Well then, have a good day. “

Now what is with this fruit thing crossing the border… and why do they ask about citrus before they ask if we have firearms or perhaps a bomb???

We leave the border wondering if the world will come to end by way of fruit or swine flu… Either way we need to get moving as we must get to the boat dock and by a ticket for the boat to take us to our first hike.

For today’s hike you will need: a boat pass, rain gear, backpack with rain shell, food, boots (hope you waterproofed your boots a week before the trip!) water proof gloves, warm clothes, not cotton as wet cotton will kill you! (I’m thinking if I had some of those little hand warmers that are good when you are hunting I would bring those also.)

Crypt Lake has more tricks than any trail in the Rockies. You cross the Rockies wildest lake by boat, ascend a narrow valley past a staircase of waterfalls, climb an iron ladder, crawl through a tiny tunnel, tippy toe along a cliff whilst hanging on to a cable skirt, above a precipice where a where a stream suddenly burst from underground and plunges 574 feet before visiting a perfect cirque lake which is in both the USA and Canada! (Isn’t that nicely written? I copied that out of a visitor’s guide.)

We got into town with about 20 minutes before the first boat left for the crypt Lake trail head. It was windy cold and just as we open the cars doors after parking, it began raining. Put on rain coats and went to purchase tickets. Went back to the car and re-thought our clothing for the day. Remove the sleeveless shirt from pack. I just about put an additional long sleeve in the pack as it seemed chilly, but surely I won’t need it... Sure wished later that I had put the additional one in.

While standing and waiting to leave I see a guy I think I know. I ask him if his name is Joe. Well yes. I said we had hiked with him last year up to Dawson’s pass with Ranger Pat Hagen. If you remember back to last year, Pat Hagen is a real story teller and really knows how to spice up a hike with little embellished stories and folk lore. After spending 8 hours hiking with people you just remember things right? I remember Joe is also a PE teacher in Oklahoma. Ok, so I just remember these things right? Well, this is what I remember rather than what the heck is 17X31? (By the way it is 527.) Joe introduces us to Gene and Linda. Joe meets Gene and Linda at Glacier every year for some hiking adventures. They are from California, St. Louis and Oklahoma.

Oh right, so now along with Joe, Gene, Linda, Kathi and I there are an additional 10 others on the boat. Usually over 100 people go on this boat, so you might be getting a good idea that it is cold and raining so why go? Well we go because it is on the schedule for the day! We are committed to our schedule.

At the start of the hike Kathi and I have on short sleeves and a raincoat. At this point we have our legs zipped on our pants, but within ¾ mile we have stopped and unzipped the lower leggings of our hiking pants. We are hiking up, up, and up. It is raining and it feels warm. As we go higher in elevation it starts getting colder and rainier. We take a break in the hike at a moment where the rain almost stops. Quickly we put on our rain pants, have a fast bathroom break and snack. Ok, so now we have shorts on under our rain pants, our legs are damp under the pants and we have been sweating under our rain coats. Just like that the rain begins coming down. We start moving again and notice a real drop in the temperature. Just as we reach the ledges the heaven open and just start pouring. The temps are in the upper 30’s, but felt like below freezing. Our hands are FREEZING! No need to put on gloves as they are not water proof so would be pointless. Kathi goes on ahead with Gene across the ledges and into the tunnel. Joe and I stand in the rain and wait for Linda. I swear she must have stopped and went in the privy to wait out the rain, because we stood in the downpour for 15 minutes… Finally Joe told me to go to the tunnel and he would wait for Linda. I did not stop and do a Minnesotan to wait until he tells me this three times… I was right on the release and headed across the ledges. I’m sure Joe was colder than I was, as He was man enough to wear his cotton shirt and get all wet before putting on his rain coat. I think he will make a wiser choice next time and not get the cotton shirt all wet… You can never get warmed up in wet cotton!

I reached the ladder and wondered if it was really attached or was I going to have to be very careful when going up. Went up and took at long step across to the solid ground of the tunnel floor. Kathi and Gene were standing there waiting for us. They looked like they were enjoying the weather much more from inside the tunnel!

After a long wait Linda and Joe finally arrived. I never did find out what was up with Linda, but they were both wet and cold. Joe’s hands were so cold he was having trouble zipping his jacket zipper. We took our packs off and started through the tunnel. The tunnel is no higher than four feet tall. You have to kind of move and groove through the tunnel. As we were approaching the end of the tunnel everything stopped. We could not go forward. The light was blocked, movement was blocked, and even though we had plenty of air… try not to panic because we are stopped. We ask what the problem is… the answer is still sort of unbelievable. The German family is standing at picnic out of the way there are people who want to get through!!!

In these two pictures you can see Gene just start going into the tunnel and is a ways down the tunnel before he backs out and takes his pack off. The tunnel gets a bit smaller after about 20 feet in. I think the total length of the tunnel must be around 60 feet. This is just the distance of a volleyball court. You could handle a tunnel for the distance of a volleyball court…right?

Gene, Joe, Kathi and I come spilling out the far end. The inner tunnel is nowhere to find yourself stuck. Linda had had enough of being stuck in the tunnel and turned back when she heard there was a picnic ahead. Most likely she had to back out butt first as there was not room to turn around. We stepped past the picnickers and tried not to give them a daggers look. Stepping out of the tunnel we had to have to wait for two people slowly coming back down the cable and ledges. Their report was that the cable and ledges were very difficult, cold, slippery, wet. Hardest thing they have every done.

I look back at Kathi and wonder if this will become another hike that I do not complete… I’mmmmmm thinking today is not my day to die. We head towards the cable. Everyone else has decided that they would not finish the hike.

I’m in the lead so I can control the pace. Just as we get to the cable a lady is bent down at the top yelling something like:” hey, are you guys coming? The worst part is right where you are so if you can make that, you have it made…”

Well that makes me feel better how about you?

Just stay in the moment. Keep your eyes on the current step. Next thing you know we are at the top. I think I was holding my breath the whole time. Ok, well, perhaps I took two breaths. Our hands were freezing and the ledges were slippery. (geezz thoughts of having to come back down that are already eking into my mind.)

The lady at the top was a 23 year old named Corrie. She was glad to have company as she was afraid that she was the only one who was going to go all the way to the lake. Corrie showed us a place where we could stand under a group of trees and take off our wet clothes, put on some dry clothes under our jackets. Then we put back on our rain gear. Remember it is still pouring and cold.

Putting a fleece on under that jacket rather than a short sleeve shirt made a big difference for us. If I had actually put that other long sleeve in my pack, I could have had an even bigger difference. The next half mile up to the lake seemed much nicer with a warmer upper half. I could almost stop shivering. Found the lake. The clouds were hanging low so we took a few pictures while standing in the rain. We stayed only about 10 minutes before we started heading back.

Eating in the pouring rain.


The trip back around the ledges was a bit easier as it was not raining as hard as before. We went one at a time and s-l-o-w-l-y worked out way down the interesting ledge with the cable. Just like that we were around that up into the tunnel, over the next ledge and facing a 4 and a half mile hike downhill back to the boat. Kathi and her number managing had us moving right along so we could make it back for the 4 pm boat ride back to our cars. You can take the 4 pm boat, wait till the 5:30 boat or wait until the next morning boat. I think we will just fast hike it back down for the 4pm boat…

We make it back to the boat dock with 15 minutes to spare. Ahh! No worries!

This was a great hike, but save it for a great day. Now I’m going to have to try this hike again!

11 miles, 2240 foot elevation gain, 6 hours and 20 minutes, 1929 calories burned, 28268 steps

Sorry no dessert tonight, I just want to take a warm shower, get out of my cold wet clothes and start drying out for tomorrows hike 
Proof that we made it to the Lake. We are standing in Canada. The back wall of the lake is the USA. We have no citrus fruit, so you do not see any border patrol agents chasing after us…

Corrie is taking our picture and trying not to get the camera to wet. It is still raining.

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Summer 09 Siyeh Pass Ranger lead hike Day 3


Summer 09 Siyeh Pass Ranger lead hike Day 3


Ohhh today you are going to need your camera, hiking poles, lunch, lots of water, warm clothes and hot weather clothes.

Today we drive up to where our hike will end at Barring Point. The whole river squeezes down through two solid rock formations that are about five feet wide. I did not have to read the car book today. I must have shown adequate coping skills for being a passenger on “the Road”. We sat at the bus stop for about 12 minutes before the shuttle arrived. This is a free shuttle that runs all day long back and forth between the park entrance and Logans Pass. ( A different shuttle runs all day from Logans Pass to the other side called Lake McDonald.) We took the shuttle up to Siyeh Bend to wait for the Ranger, and anyone else who would be joining us on this hike. The shuttle has big ole windows. This allowed Kathi to do a whole bunch of looking without breaking any rules.


Today we will gain 2240 in elevation and loose 3440 feet in elevation. We will go over two passes today. It will be a day of climbing and descending. Ranger Adrian comes walking up. She is a summer Ranger who had been rangering down in the National Parks down in civil war’ish National Parks. Ok, now I should remember which park, but I forgot… This was going to be her first Ranger lead hike, so that made us her pilot test group. She had in her pack little booklets that we would be able to write our thoughts and feelings in as we headed up and over the pass. Kathi and I started our hike with two others making a group of five. It was not long before two of the groups members were turning their thought books, as they wanted to hike faster than Adrian. Adrian was trying to tell us all those fancy little diddies that she had memorized. Only she forgot to pace herself. Kathi and I informed Adrain that we could hike faster… We picked up the pace some, Adrian identified bear grass, blanket flowers, columbine, forget me knots, and pfacelia. Ok. I think we knew those…every time we found a flower that she did not know, she offered to stop and look it up for us…no, no. Let’s not stop.

As we were learning about the two ways that trees rot, a guy came hurrying up the trail. His name was Todd. He had driven down from Waterton and was a bit late for the ranger lead hike that started at 9 am. So he fast hiked up the trail until he found us. We were not any more than two and half miles up the trail. Because Adrian forgot the part about go the speed of your group. I think she missed the parts that if the group can go faster…then so can you! We stopped at a stream water fall cascade had a snack and had some time to write in our reflection book. Headed up and onward to the switchbacks. We took this slow and at a pace that neither Kathi nor I went above 80% on our heart rate monitor. I’m sure both Todd and Adrian could have gone faster, but we still just plodded along. Finally made it up and over the final switch back and rounded the last corner to a wonderful view down through the Boulder Creek Valley. This part of the park does not have any trails through it. So I guess that this is where all of the bear, grizzly, elk, and moose hang out on their off days. We sat up on top of the pass with our backs against a rock wall and looked out down the valley. The trail is as wide as a sidewalk, but the edge of the sidewalk is a 4000 ft drop. The drop off makes the ledge seems like 2 feet wide. What a gorgeous lunch spot! But let’s face it; my butt was firmly planted against the rock at my back! As we sat here we needed to make another entry into our books. This time we were to think up phases, words to describe our journey so far. After we finished we packed up and headed around the corner. The wind was blowing and the temperature was much colder! Stopped to take a few pictures and then put on more clothes. At this point it looked like we might be putting on rain gear as dark clouds were blowing over. It did sprinkle a bit, but never open up. We met two ladies up there who had spotted grizzly tracks across a snow field. We walked over to the snow field to have a look…Sure enough bear tracks…Yo, Bear!!! 15 x3=45 x2=90… I guess I never thought that bear would be going over Siyeh pass, but I guess they have to get to the Boulder creek valley somehow…

As we went down the other side of the pass, it was striking! We had the opportunity to take a close up look at sexton glacier. The toe of the glacier overhangs the valley below and water is rushing, falling, and crashing down the valley. We stood and watched the glacier for a few moments before descending down over a very mysterious trail over the large escarpment. I’m not sure who figured out how to get a trail in the block of rock, but it should receive and award. You never felt like you were going over some drop off just sort of wondering back and forth stepping over a few rocks and small streams. Next thing you know we are looking back up and over towards the Mt. where we came from. Amazing. Coming down the valley we walk next to the rushing water from the sexton glacier and watch it as it get jumbled around. We talk about how glaciers are the area water towers. As the towers melt the water rolls down the valley and into the lakes, then into the prairie, water ways and out into the fields. This is the water that feeds and grows the westerns states… Well, now there is something to think about. Should we get out our refection books…. Hmm not lets keep moving.

We end our hike down by Barring Point. This is where all of the glacier melt is rushing and squeezing between the two rock faces which are about 5 feet apart. Blue glacier water rushing through is a wondrous sight. And if you are doing Glacier by car, you can actually drive up, park you car some 100 steps away and see this. But you will have to hike the 10 miles to get the whole picture.

I really must say that this was a stunning hike, with not to bad of exposure. But ohh , the views were exceptional. This will be in my must do again folder!


My reflection for Adrian is; she needs to learn how to be a story teller, not a fact teller. With the subject material that she has to work with she could create a real show… Well she has all summer to work on it and jazz it up a bit.


Today’s journey was only 10.3 miles, 28,091 steps 6 hours and 29 minutes. Only 1566 calories, but I am going to have dessert anyway… don’t tell 

Summer 2009 Gunsight Lake Day 2


Day Two Gunsight Lake


Were you wondering about that tire? Yes, that was the first thing I looked at this morning when I got up. I walked to the window and took a gander at the tire. I can’t believe that thing is not flat… But am I ever relieved.

We have to drive up that old road again. Kathi tells me to read about the parking brake and how one might deploy it and un deploy it. I read to her about the parking break. I’m starting to think she is just trying to keep me busy… Does anyone need to know about the Chevy 2010 Malibu? I can say I have read the book and understand it’s finer details! We arrive at the trail head without any problems or air sucking. And deploy the parking brake.

Today you are going to need reading material and bug spray. If you have bear spray bring that also…


We do not have bear spray as it costs $50 bucks a can and you cannot take it on the airplane. So we do loud hiking. Talk loud, laugh, giggle, tell bad jokes, practice math. Really. Kathi loves numbers so we start with a number like 34 +6=42x2=84 /4= 21/7=3x15=45/9=5 Ok…This little math games goes on for miles… I have to do all of the figuring on these math sentences as Kathi and her love for numbers just knows the answer while I have to spend a few moments figuring these things out. These are things you do after you already know all of the stories of the other person you are hiking with 

Anyway, put on your mosquito spray, and no you don’t apply the bear spray to yourself. You carry the can in a really easy gripping spot on your straps of your pack. Be ready to grab and spray. Remember to check for wind direction. If the wind is to your face you will spray and be immediately grabbing your face and eyes as the spray is totally hot pepper spray… Also remember you have at best a 15 foot shooting distance, with 10 seconds of spray. A grizzly and black bear can run 40 miles an hour for short distances. Even my highly tuned math skills can figure you have little chance of spraying the bear, a high chance of spraying yourself, and needing to change your underwear… Best to be really loud and scare away all wildlife while hiking! 12 x10 =120-40= 80…

Gun sight pass is supposed to be the epic hike at Glacier national Park. It has a chain of lakes, two mountain passes and some fantastic views along the way. The epic part of this hike is also 20 miles long. Most people do this in a two day hike. They hike up to Sperry lodge stay a night and then hike down to McDonald Lake the next day. Ahhh, we do not have reservations at Sperry lodge so we will only be going to the lake. We ponder the possibility of going up to the pass, but will reach that decision when we see it!


Trail starts and ends with a 600 foot drop in elevation over a mile and half down to the river bottom. This will mean a 600 foot walk back up at the end. Who thought that was a good idea?

The trail meanders along the river bottom through wonderful moose habitat. We see in the mud a track that is perhaps a bear paw or a beautiful arrangement of an old boot with no tread and perfectly placed nail marks. (my guess is 99% sure it is bear, I’ll leave 1% chance it was something else) We see all sorts of moose poo. We also see some bear poo- so we are being very LOUD! Yo, Bear, Yogi Bear! Funny we keep looking for any moose that might not have been chased off with our yelling. We saw no moose over the distance of 4 miles of the perfect moose habitat, gladly, I can say we also saw no bear. Frankly, I find the second part of that sentence to be more important than the first… Others might feel differently. They most likely have bear spray attached to their pack strap and feel they have a reasonable chance of spraying the bear.


Slowly we begin to leave the river bottoms and gain some elevation. This whole trail is filled with some very woodsy smells. Trail is heavily laden with cow parsnip and scratchy willows, columbine, bear grass, paint brush, and other flowers that I do not know the name of but like looking at. We make good time back to the lake.

The lake is beautiful, the day is perfect and the pass looks like we just want to sit and look at it rather than climb 1200 foot elevation in one mile just to get a different perspective of what we know is already a perfect view. So we sit down on a log at the base of the Lake. This is a perfect spot to sit and eat lunch and do some reading. Like I said earlier, you will need to bring some reading material along. Kathi and I forgot this little part of the packing this morning so we just sit and look, ponder, watch fish jump, skip some rocks, and swat mosquitoes. These mountain mosquitoes are pretty slow or do not have the brains of a mid west mosquitoes. You can kill these guys easy. Three might land on your arm and you can get all three without a problem. When does that ever happen back home.

We spent an hour just sitting at the lake, pondering, skipping, swatting. We decide to head back out. On the way out we see some trees that have barbed wire attached to them. These trees are special trees and are part of a big science experiment. Bear like to scratch their backs on trees. They usually use trees that are right along the trail as this gives them the best opportunity for nothing to get in the way of a good scratch. Remember trails are also animal’s highway through the woods. Much easier to travel on something clear of debris rather than trying to walk over downed branches and other deep woods clutter. So the scientists’ are gathering hair that the bear have rubbed and gotten caught in the barbed wire. They test the hair DNA and track what bears are in the area and what their traveling habits are. This experiment is a USA/Canadian project. Kathi and I stop at each tree and try to see if any hairs are caught in the wire. After close examination we determined there are no hairs. Perhaps the bear that dropped the poo had a friend to scratch his back…

We did have our first sighting of a martin loping down the trail at us. This looks much like a mink. It had gorgeous dark shinny coat and a mouse in its mouth. I was in the front. I stopped as I have never encountered this type of animal and was trying to think what the rule might be here… How viscous are these critters… Is it going to come after us??? The martin stopped with in15 feet of us. Looked at us, turned and trotted back the trail about 10 feet then turned again and headed for us. Stopped and decided to get off trail and get in the tall weeds. Hmmm! That was interesting. I never even had the chance to get my camera out to take a picture of it.

Hiked back on down the trail yo bearing and looking for any deaf moose. Gun sight Lake was truly beautiful and I bet the pass is spectacular, but by the end of this hike we will have added another 13 miles to our running total. So we are in two days at 28.2 miles hiked. Today we hike for 5 hours and 47 minutes, taking 31,335 steps and burn 1467 calories. Looks like dessert is on the menu tonight!!!